The Peshawar Cliché

Over coffee with a friend, I mentioned that I spent a week of my vacation in the city of Peshawar, and the reaction, though expected, jarred me. His eyebrows climbed up his forehead and he asked with pure disbelief, “Why?” When I gave him a rundown of my trip, his eyebrows climbed higher. His jaw … Continue reading The Peshawar Cliché

Tea at the Frontier

At the northwest edge of Peshawar is the Khyber gate and Jamrud Fort that marks the beginning of what we in Pakistan know as Ilaqa Ghair, or ‘ungoverned/lawless territory’. This is Khyber agency, one of several agencies that comprise FATA, or the Federally Administered Tribal Areas. The Khyber gate guards the Khyber Pass, several kilometers outside … Continue reading Tea at the Frontier